Thursday, March 1, 2012
PFW Fall '12: Rochas
The Fall Rochas show was a swirling kaleidoscope of graphic, geometric prints inspired by the pottery of the Swedish ceramicist Wilhelm Kage. Designer Marco Zanini collects his pieces; still, he was surprised when he found himself using them in his own work. He usually starts with an image of a woman or a movie.
Well, the change did him good. Despite what Zanini called the collection's "certain disregard for quiet good taste," there were many good, wearable pieces for both day and evening. Unlike his show for Spring, which had a formal fifties couture look, this one had a cooler seventies vibe. Jacquard pants were deeply flared and nearly grazed the floor despite the models' stacked heel sandals. And the collection's "ugly" prints (including those on the clashing tights) reminded some in the crowd of nineties Prada, when Miuccia herself was taking a closer look at the seventies. Zanini was extra proud that they were painted by hand, without the use of a computer. An interlocking diamond pattern that looked like stained glass on a button-down shirt and on matching flares was particularly compelling.
However, it wasn't all prints, all the time. A mustard ribbed sweater (one of the collection's many excellent knits) was paired with silk pants in a slightly different shade of yellow, giving the eyes a chance to rest. Zanini's finale ball gowns came in warm fall colors like that, but not before he sent out a trio of floor-length dresses fearlessly enlivened with pattern. Who needs good taste?- style.com