Today's J. Mendel show was a mellifluous affair: Making a U-turn from last season's sharp silhouettes and color-blocking, designer Gilles Mendel sent out a collection that emphasized soft shapes and a neutral palette. His experiments largely centered on the construction of his furs, in particular the coats that knit together various fur textures, and voluminous yet lightweight dégradé furs mounted on tulle. Elsewhere, Mendel focused on dirndl-shaped short skirts in crepe and wool breezy pleated ones made from chiffon. He girded all that movement with architectural cutouts and structured tops and jackets; his paneled crocodile and metallic tweed jackets were particularly fine.
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