Tuesday, January 24, 2012
Couture 2012: Versace
Donatella Versace has been making headlines for months with her collection for the fast-fashion retailer H&M. Today she put the focus on the other end of her fashion spectrum: the made-to-measure Atelier Versace range, a line not seen on the Paris Couture schedule since 2004. Angelina Jolie wowed at the Golden Globes last week in a white Atelier Versace gown with a corseted waist that was made to look even tinier by the frock's arabesque of a red neckline. The dresses today followed the same general principle: second-skin tight and cut to accentuate the hourglass curves of a woman's body, only encrusted top to bottom in beads and plastic paillettes in place of Angie's shimmering satin. Here, in fact, the shapes were even more exaggerated thanks to curving gold metal insets that built up the shoulders or added inches to the hips.
The expertly realized results evoked Thierry Mugler's eighties glory days on the one hand and the movie Metropolis on the other. Backstage, Versace said, "I call them my warrior women." Fierce is putting things mildly. You can picture Diaz, with her muscled frame and newly cropped platinum bob, knocking them dead in a sparkly caution orange number, its strapless bodice outlined with a swoop of gold metal and the sequined hem giving way to delicate lace.