Sunday, September 25, 2011
MFW Spring/Summer 2012: Emporio Armani
Neodesign, the title Giorgio Armani gave hisEmporio collection, suggests something sci-fi. The show itself compounded that idea with the glitter of crystal, a palette of bright white and icy pastel, and rings-of-Saturn silhouettes lifted from the Pierre Cardin songbook. The models, too, were blond-wigged replicants, topped with incongruous little boaters and toed in Lucite wedges that glowed like Kryptonite. You might assume from this that Armani wanted to smooth out human individuality so the focus fell squarely on the character of the clothes. However, his vision was so cool and muted that the overriding impression was of an icy,Metropolis-like uniformity, despite a finale that married one model in a black pantsuit to another in a skirt of shimmering crystal.