Friday, February 17, 2012
NYFW Fall '12: Anna Sui
Anna Sui could spin you a story about how she wove the web of inspiration for her latest collection: the Todd Oldham book about textile designer Alexander Girard, the valentine cards illustrators Walter and Naiad Einsel sent each other every year, the commercial art of Fellini favorite John Alcorn, the caftans Elizabeth Taylor wore in her campiest seventies glory days. The go-go girls on Shindig! But all of that enlightenment would ultimately be surplus to needs, because the clothes Sui showed told their own story, as upbeat and literally transporting as anyone could hope for from fashion at a time when the world craves reminders of enchantment.
Like Marc Jacobs' show the other night, Sui's presentation honed in on the fantasy of fashion. It's scarcely a new impulse with her, but what elevated the collection this time was an extraordinary precision and polish. The detail was off the map, as in a "librarian" dress with a print of books, trimmed in a lace in the same book pattern (made in New Jersey; Sui is, after all, New York fashion's locavore equivalent). Or a print that featured postcards with the addresses of all the Sui stores around the world. Or a smock whose bodice was dressed with laser-cut Plexi butterflies.
Anna Sui could spin you a story about how she wove the web of inspiration for her latest collection: the Todd Oldham book about textile designer Alexander Girard, the valentine cards illustrators Walter and Naiad Einsel sent each other every year, the commercial art of Fellini favorite John Alcorn, the caftans Elizabeth Taylor wore in her campiest seventies glory days. The go-go girls on Shindig! But all of that enlightenment would ultimately be surplus to needs, because the clothes Sui showed told their own story, as upbeat and literally transporting as anyone could hope for from fashion at a time when the world craves reminders of enchantment.
Like Marc Jacobs' show the other night, Sui's presentation honed in on the fantasy of fashion. It's scarcely a new impulse with her, but what elevated the collection this time was an extraordinary precision and polish. The detail was off the map, as in a "librarian" dress with a print of books, trimmed in a lace in the same book pattern (made in New Jersey; Sui is, after all, New York fashion's locavore equivalent). Or a print that featured postcards with the addresses of all the Sui stores around the world. Or a smock whose bodice was dressed with laser-cut Plexi butterflies.- style.com
Labels:
FW '12 Fashion Week
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