After a couple of seasons raging against the machine in angst-y, punk-themed collections,Yohji Yamamoto relocated to a lighter, more romantic point on his spectrum. "He must be in love," remarked one critic, even before the bride and her boyish attendant-slash-groom closed the show with their bit of Chaplin-esque train-carrying theater. The show also opened with a floor-sweeping number: a simple royal blue jersey dress with an incongruous train nearly the length of the runway, worn with an outsize spiraling Mad Hatter's hat. There was clearly some fascination with trailing fabric; a pair of cutaway coats did the same.
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