The planets aligned for Gareth Pugh tonight. He got to show his clothes just the way he'd always wanted—with his longtime collaborators Matthew Stone and Ruth Hogben providing, respectively, brilliant sound and vision to enhance his collection. Maybe that's why the show itself was more upbeat than anything this designer's ever done. In fact, it was positively happy, which sounds like a weird thing to say about a presentation that began with the image of a model in agonized isolation on the screen at the back of the catwalk. But—more to the point—it ended in fiery triumph, with Pugh's glistening, masked insectoid hybrid stalking down the runway and assuming her rightful place as empress of the universe. She'd shed her humanity to find her power. OK, that's a conceptual bridge the average boutique browser may find hard to cross, and maybe it just comes to mind because Hollywood's tom-toms are already throbbing on behalf of next year's last-woman-standing spectacularThe Hunger Games, but Pugh's models definitely looked weaponized, like sci-fi birds of prey.
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